Thinking of running on the Big Island. Just because you are on and Island doesn’t mean you can’t get your runs in. If you are looking for some great exercise look no further than the Big Island of Hawaii! With its breathtaking views and wide open spaces, it’s a runner’s paradise. From local stores to Saddle Road running trails, there are plenty of places to explore when running Big Island. For those who want to make their run an adventure, we’ve put together some safety tips and accommodation options so that you can get the most out of your experience while staying safe on your journey. We’ll also discuss some great races and events that happen around the Big Island each year – perfect for any competitive runners out there wanting something more from their time spent running Big Island!

Table of Contents:

• Running on the Big Island
• Running Stores on the Big Island
  • Locations and Hours of Operation
  • Types of Gear Available
  • Special Events & Promotions
• Safety Tips for Running on the Big Island
• Accommodations for Runners on the Big Island
• Local Races and Events on the Big Island
• FAQs in Relation to Running Big Island
  • Where can run in Kona?
  • Is Hawaii good for running?
  • How long does it take to drive around the entire Big Island?
  • Where can I run Hilo?
• Conclusion

Running on the Big Island

The Big Island of Hawaii is a runner’s paradise, with an abundance of trails and roads to explore. When I’m looking for a good long run I go where the pros and the local age groupers get their run on. Saddle Road. Saddle Road running is one of the most popular activities on the island, as it offers stunning views and challenging terrain. The road runs from Hilo to Kona along Mauna Kea volcano, offering runners a unique experience in the heart of nature.

Saddle Road Running: Saddle Road is approximately 54 miles long and has several steep inclines that can be quite challenging for runners. It also features several scenic overlooks where you can take in panoramic views of Mauna Kea volcano and its surrounding landscape. As this route takes you through some remote areas, it’s important to plan ahead and bring plenty of water and snacks for your run. I usually start from the Waimea side of Saddle Road. Not crowded, plenty of places to park, and most importantly, good food afterward. Waimea Coffee Company and The Fish and the Hog are two of our favorites to refuel.

Popular Trails to Run: There are many popular trails on the Big Island that offer great running opportunities for all levels. For those looking for an easy run, try out Wailoa River State Park or Laupahoehoe Point Beach Park; both feature flat paths with beautiful scenery along the way. For more experienced runners who want something more challenging, there are plenty of trails around Waipio Valley or Pololu Valley which offer steep climbs and rugged terrain perfect for testing your endurance levels.

Generally speaking, the summer months (May – September) tend to have warmer temperatures but higher humidity levels, making it difficult at times especially during mid-day hours when sun exposure is highest. Conversely, the winter months (October – April) tend to have cooler temperatures but lower humidity levels, making them ideal conditions for outdoor activities such as running or hiking.

Running on the Big Island offers a variety of terrain and climate for runners to explore. With the right gear and knowledge, anyone can enjoy a great run in paradise. Now let’s take a look at the running stores available on the Big Island.

Key Takeaway: The Big Island of Hawaii is a great place for runners, offering challenging terrain on Saddle Road and trails ranging from easy to difficult. The best time to run is during the winter months when temperatures are cooler and humidity levels lower.

Running Stores on the Big Island

Whether you’re an experienced runner or just getting started, there are plenty of options for finding what you need.

Locations and Hours of Operation

There are several running stores located on the Big Island that offer convenient hours for shopping. Some popular locations include Hilo Running Company in Hilo, Kona Running Company in Kailua-Kona, and Volcano Runners in Volcano Village. Each store offers different hours so be sure to check their website or call ahead before visiting.

Types of Gear Available

The stores stock all the basic necessities but if you don’t find exactly what you are looking for check a local bike shop. Remember the Big Island is the Mecca of Triathlons so between most of the stores you should be able to find most of what you are looking for if you didn’t have room in your suitcase.

Special Events & Promotions

In addition to carrying great gear for runners on the Big Island, some stores also host special events throughout the year such as group runs or races with prizes available at certain times. Be sure to check each store’s website or social media pages regularly for updates about upcoming events or promotions that may be happening near you.

From running stores to special events and promotions, the Big Island has a wide range of offerings for runners. But before you head out on your next run, be sure to check out our safety tips for running on the Big Island.

Safety Tips for Running on the Big Island

Weather Considerations: When running on the Big Island, it is important to consider the weather. The climate can vary greatly depending on where you are located. In some areas, temperatures can reach over 100 degrees Fahrenheit during summer months while in other areas they may be much cooler and more temperate. Additionally, rain showers can occur at any time of year so it’s best to check the forecast before heading out for a run. Make sure to dress appropriately and bring along extra layers if needed. Not a lot you can do about wind but during winter months the winds can really pick up. Those are the days we tend to do loops instead of getting too far away. Heavy winds or rains can wipe you out and make for a long walk home.

Wildlife Awareness: As with any outdoor activity, there is always a risk of encountering wildlife when running on the Big Island. It tends to be small animals or occasionally a goat. We’ve never had a bad encounter but we always remember we’re the guest and let them go on their way

The Big Island has destroyed many a runner. As pretty as the surroundings can be, the sun and humidity drain you quickly. Staying hydrated and properly nourished is essential for any runner visiting the Big Island due to its hot climate and strenuous terrain. Make sure you drink plenty of water throughout your runs in order to avoid dehydration which can lead to fatigue or worse yet heat stroke. Bring along snacks like energy bars or trail mix for an added boost during longer runs as well as electrolyte drinks like Gatorade which help replenish lost minerals from sweating profusely in hot climates such as Hawaii’s Big Island has been known for having. The asphalt can really get cooking here and as we said above, its not the out that gets you, it’s trying to get back. The Big Island is Big. Says it right there in the title. If you’re out for a longer run, let others know where you went because the distance between destinations can be vast areas with long distances between help.

Running on the Big Island can be a safe and enjoyable experience if you take the necessary precautions. With these tips in mind, now let’s look at some great accommodations for runners on the Big Island.

Accommodations for Runners on the Big Island

For runners visiting the Big Island, there are plenty of accommodations to choose from that will make your stay comfortable and enjoyable. Hotels with fitness centers or tracks nearby offer a great way to stay active while on vacation. Many hotels have their own gyms, pools, and running tracks for guests to use at no extra cost. Additionally, some hotels may even provide special discounts for runners who book in advance.

Vacation rentals with access to trails or roads for running routes are also available throughout the island. Whether you’re looking for a beachfront condo or an inland cabin in the woods, many rental properties come equipped with scenic paths perfect for running outdoors. Some of these rentals may even be located near popular trails such as Pololu Valley Trailhead or Kilauea Iki Trailhead which can give you easy access to breathtaking views and challenging terrain during your run.

No matter what type of accommodation you decide on, it is important to remember that safety should always be your top priority when running outdoors in Hawaii’s tropical climate. Be sure to bring enough water and wear appropriate clothing so that you do not overheat during your runs.

Whether you’re looking for a hotel with a fitness center or a vacation rental with access to trails, the Big Island has plenty of accommodation options for runners. Next, let’s look at some of the local races and events available on the island.

Local Races and Events on the Big Island

Whether you’re looking to compete in a marathon or just enjoy a leisurely jog, there are plenty of opportunities available.

Upcoming Races and Marathons: The Big Island hosts several marathons each year, including the Kona Marathon in January and the Hilo Marathon in April. Both offer scenic courses that take runners through some of the island’s most beautiful locations. There are also shorter races such as 5Ks and 10Ks held throughout the year at various locations around the island. You can always check the Big Island Running Store’s Race Calendar HERE

Fun Runs and Group Activities: For those who prefer something less competitive, there are plenty of fun runs on offer too. Many local running clubs host group activities such as beach jogs or sunset runs where participants can get together to socialize while enjoying their run. These activities often include post-run gatherings with food and drinks afterwards so it’s a great way to meet other like-minded people while getting your exercise in too.

If you’re looking for more structured training programs, then look no further than one of the many offered on the Big Island. From beginner level classes all the way up to advanced marathon training sessions, there is something suitable for everyone regardless of experience or fitness level. All these programs come with experienced coaches who will provide guidance every step along your journey towards achieving your goals.

FAQs in Relation to Running Big Island

Where can run in Kona?

Kona, on the Big Island of Hawaii, is a great place to go running. The area offers plenty of options for all levels and abilities. For those looking for a scenic run, Ali’i Drive is perfect – it runs along the coast with stunning views of Kailua Bay and beyond. If you’re looking for something more challenging, there are several trails in nearby parks such as Pu’uhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park or Kaloko-Honokohau National Historic Park that offer beautiful scenery and varied terrain. And our favorite long run. Saddle Road

Is Hawaii good for running?

Yes, Hawaii is a great place for running. The Big Island offers many scenic trails and paths to explore, from the beaches of Kona to the rainforest of Hilo. The mild climate makes it ideal for year-round running and the variety of terrain provides something for everyone – whether you’re looking for an easy jog or a challenging trail run. With its breathtaking views and diverse landscapes, running in Hawaii can be an unforgettable experience.

How long does it take to drive around the entire Big Island?

It typically takes around 10-12 hours to drive around the entire Big Island of Hawaii. The total distance is approximately 200 miles and it can be completed in one day if you are an experienced driver and have a full tank of gas. However, there are many stops along the way that make for great sightseeing opportunities so it’s recommended to plan your route ahead of time and allow more than one day to explore all that this beautiful island has to offer.

Where can I run Hilo?

Hilo, located on the east side of Hawaii’s Big Island, is a great place to go for a run. The town itself offers scenic views along its waterfront and through its lush tropical rainforest. For those looking for more challenging terrain, there are plenty of trails in nearby Akaka Falls State Park or the Waipio Valley Lookout that offer spectacular views while running. If you’re up for an adventure, try tackling Mauna Kea’s summit trail – it’s definitely worth the effort. No matter where you choose to run in Hilo, you’ll be sure to find something that fits your needs and provides an unforgettable experience.

Conclusion

Running on the Big Island is a great way to explore its beautiful landscape and get some exercise. Whether you’re looking for a long run, or just an easy jog around town, there are plenty of options available. There are running stores on the island that can provide you with all your needs as well as safety tips for running in unfamiliar areas. Accommodations for runners can be found throughout the island so that you can rest up after your runs. And if you’re feeling competitive, there are local races and events taking place year-round to test your skills against other runners from around the world. So don’t hesitate – start planning your next running big island adventure today!

It’s time to come together and find solutions that will help preserve the Big Island of Hawaii. This stunning island is home to many unique species, a vibrant culture, and countless activities for visitors. We need to work collaboratively on strategies that reduce pollution, protect vulnerable ecosystems, conserve resources responsibly, promote sustainable tourism practices and support local businesses while ensuring everyone can enjoy this beautiful place in all its glory! Let’s start making positive change today!

Carlsmith inhabits a peninsula of land that juts off of the Hilo coast a few miles past the city’s iconic breakwater, and features several small coves and inlets of brilliantly clear, shallow water. Its swimming holes are well-protected from the ranks of lumbering waves charging their way inland farther up the coast, making it a popular spot for families with small children and those just learning to swim. Patches of sand and smooth black lava rock line the bottom of the pools, easily spotted from the hilly lawns of green grass above where gaggles of sunbathers, picnickers, joggers and dog-walkers relax in the cool shade provided by plantings of native trees and shrubs.

This stretch of lush, verdant land and its groves of broad-leafed flora bordering the ocean inhabits a shelf of smooth lava rock known in Hawaiian as “pahoehoe” (pah-hoy-hoy). Its lawns are punctuated all over with evidence of the park’s volcanic past: bare spots of jet-black, glossy and brittle-looking lava line the footpaths and poke up through the soft, finely cut grass. Towering over the sunbathers are coconut palms with their bunches of swelling golden fruit, some as tall as four-story buildings. Not far from these are stands of the park’s resident ironwood trees, with their gnarled branches and fans of needle-like leaves that shimmer in the constant onshore breeze and emit a distinct whistling sound.

Set back a bit from where the turquoise ocean waters meets the smooth, ropey black rock shelf is a large lagoon that snakes around the peninsula. It’s fed by freshwater springs and is composed of cold but exceptionally clear brackish water that carries with it a faint reflection of the inviting light blue hue of the bay. Schools of small colorful tropical fish can be seen darting around in these shallow, translucent pools, having rode in on the ranks of white-tipped waves making their interminable assault against the rocky coast. Wading out into the lagoon can leave swimmers with a strange sensation of simultaneously feeling two different temperatures; this is due to fact that the cold freshwater seeping in from a number of surrounding springs tends to float on top of the warmer saltwater.

On the left-hand side of the peninsula is a white plastic and stainless steel rail lifeguard tower keeping watch over those milling around the bay and making sure hapless swimmers don’t venture too far out to where the big waves are breaking. In general, though, Carlsmith is an exceptionally safe place for ocean-goers, and the lifeguards on duty here often look downright bored from the lack of excitement – a welcome sign for visitors to the island who’ve heard horror stories of rip currents and rogue waves. 

Big Island boasts a long list of beach parks that can become excessively dangerous during rough ocean conditions, but Carlsmith is undeniably low on it. This is thanks to its position on the sheltered side of an ocean-facing peninsula, with a series of flat-bottomed shallow pools stretching out to meet the submerged reef offshore which tempers the force of incoming waves and slows down rushing water during tidal changes. Swimmers should still exercise caution while at Carlsmith, though, and should remember to check with lifeguard staff about current ocean conditions if they have any concerns. As with all ocean activities in Hawaii, it’s crucial to remember the statewide water safety motto: “If in doubt, don’t go out!”

The park’s shallow coves and extensive lagoon also provide an ideal feeding ground for Hawaiian Green Sea Turtles, which can often be spotted sunning themselves on the numerous rocky outcrops that get revealed during low tides. The turtles are exceedingly friendly and don’t seem to mind humans very much, and it’s easy to mistake their brownish-black shells and dark scaly skin for yet another mound of lava rocks. Although it can be tempting to get up close and personal with the turtles, keep in mind that they are a critically endangered species, and that strict state and federal protections are in place demanding their protection and doling out stiff punishments for violators. So, keep at least ten feet away from these adorable, majestic animals and never touch, feed or harass them.

In addition to modern restroom facilities near the park’s entrance, other amenities at Carlsmith include covered pavilions outfitted with picnic tables, outdoor public shower stands, drinking fountains, barbecue pits and a handful of stainless steel handrails positioned at several different entrances to the lagoon. The handrails look like those clinging to the steps of public swimming pools, and can prove to be invaluable for beach-goers with slight mobility problems, as many other Hilo-area beach parks do not have these types of accessibility aids. So, count on having an easy time getting in and out of the water and stick to the established swimming areas.

The Family-Friendly Atmosphere of “Four Mile” 

Similar to Richardson Ocean Park – another iconic Hilo swimming spot a bit farther down the road – Carlsmith is named after the original family who long ago owned the land that now comprises the park. Although not as common these days, the Carlsmith was once almost ubiquitously referred to as “four mile”, after the fact that it was located exactly four miles from downtown Hilo. After all, it is very common on Big Island for locals to name places – especially beaches – after mile markers, as is the case with the beloved, secluded white sands of Beach 69 in the Puako area of North Kona.

Kealoha Beach Park is right next door to Carlsmith, and discerning the border between the two can be tricky to the uninitiated, as Kealoha’s long diagonal breakwater of seaweed-clad lava boulders looks out onto several of its neighbor’s shallow, electric-blue coves full of swimmers and waders. Many of those heading to Carlsmith opt to park in Kealoha’s expansive, easy to navigate parking lot on busy days when the spots along the main road closest to the footpath are crammed bumper to bumper. 

No matter what you choose to call the park, it’s a safe, peaceful and welcoming swath of windswept grass and smooth lava rock with coves of some of the clearest water of any Hilo beach. And its reputation as one of the best swimming spots in East Hawaii means it can get pretty crowded on weekends, holidays and throughout the peak of tourism season. During these times it’s not uncommon to see the lawn space checkered with beach blankets and folding chairs, however the brackish lagoon and its surrounding tide pools are hardly ever crowded thanks to their sprawling size and many different secluded areas. So, it’s possible to have a slice of Carlsmith all to yourself, especially on weekday mornings in the summertime when much of the park’s grounds can appear deserted. 

How To Get to Carlsmith Beach Park

Beach-goers can get to the shady, placid waters of Carlsmith Beach Park by heading east at the intersection of Highway 11, otherwise known as Hawaii Belt Road, and Kamehameha Avenue along Hilo’s main bayfront thoroughfare. From this intersection, turn onto Kalanianaole Street and continue for roughly four miles, passing the Port of Hilo, Kuhio Kalanianaole Park, Big Island Motors, Keaukaha General Store, Keaukaha Beach Park and Kealoha Beach Park.

Park on the side of the highway and take the well-worn footpath skirting along the lagoon that leads into the forested grove past a hand-carved wooden sign emblazoned with the park’s name. The footpath takes visitors past all of the main ocean access spots (outfitted with steel handrails) and then loops back inland again bringing them to the restroom building next to the main road. This makes for a short, peaceful walk beside the seashore along a path of gravel and dirt that can get pretty muddy during rainy season.

Carlsmith is located just a few miles from Hilo International Airport, and is a very popular destination for vacationers fresh off the plane who want to get a head start on some beach time. So, if your flight into Hilo arrives before dark on a calm, sunny day, consider immediately heading here to jump in the warm pools, see a spectacular sunset and catch a few glimpses of the towering, magnificent mountain Mauna Kea in the distance as the sky starts to become painted with streaks of orange and red. 

Carlsmith Beach Park is open from 7:00am to 8:00pm daily.

The beach is found within the much larger Hapuna Beach State Recreation Area, consisting of more than 60 acres of scraggly, windswept coastal land offering hiking and camping activities in addition to swimming, sunbathing, snorkeling, barbecuing and boogie boarding along the beachfront. Hapuna’s reputation on the island is legendary; locals and visitors alike consistently rank it as one of the best white sand beaches in West Hawaii, and compare it favorably to the white sands of islands like Kauai where the wide band of inviting-looking sand the color of raw sugar hugs the shore and seems to go on for miles in both directions.

Hapuna is about the closest thing to this travel brochure vista that Big Island has to offer, considering that more than half of its coastline is made up of unforgiving black lava cliffs crashed against by towering, angry waves. Its grounds are well-maintained and handsomely landscaped, with several square open-air gazebos crammed with picnic tables and positioned next to barbecue pits. The green-roofed structures are expansive; each one large enough to seat several different family groups at once. Gently curving concrete sidewalks running parallel to the beach link the gazebos with stands of public showers and shaded grassy areas ideal for unfurling a picnic blanket.

Like a handful of other popular Kona-side beaches, Hapuna is divided into a southern “public” side and a northern “private” side. The private end is mostly used by guests staying at the adjacent hotels and resorts, including the Hapuna Prince Hotel, The Westin Hapuna Beach Resort, and the Hapuna Beach Residences at Mauna Kea Resort. These are the sprawling multi-story white buildings jutting out onto the bluff which seem to make their way into many of the most iconic photos of the beach. 

These accommodations provide lounge chairs and parasols for their guests, which can usually be spotted set out on the sand in neat rows or bunched together for storage. “Public” side visitors to Hapuna can still explore any part of the beach they want as long as they respect the hotel facilities and keep in mind that the inland areas north of the State Recreation Area boundary is technically private property. There is no hard boundary between the two sections of the beach, though, and hotel guests regularly wander down to the southern end while swimmers and boogie boarders often set out in search of more ideal waves up north. 

Beach conditions at Hapuna change dramatically between summer and winter, where from October through April large waves coming from the northwest charge into the bay and crash on the beach in spectacular fashion, drawing hordes of surfers and boogie boarders eager to ride the swelling waves. This is also the time of year where the beach narrows significantly due to shifting sand, contrasting with the summer months where it grows to its maximum width in or around the month of September. Waves and rip currents are calmer in the summer, too, when it’s typical for the beach break at Hapuna to be little more than a gentle, soothing lapping. Still, lifeguards are on-duty at Hapuna every day of the year and have made many daring rescues during periods of high surf.

However, due to its immense length there are several blind spots along the formidable stretch of sand, especially at either end where rocky outcrops provide ideal snorkeling grounds. Snorkeling isn’t as popular at Hapuna as other world-renown Big Island underwater adventure spots like Two Step at Honaunau Bay, but mask and fin-clad swimmers can still by spotted on most days plying the waters just offshore of the rocky cliffs looking for colorful tropical fish, cities of delicate coral and the occasional Hawaiian green sea turtle. Water visibility can sometimes be poor right offshore due to suspended beach sand and a layer of freshwater supplied by nearby springs which floats on the surface of the seawater. So don’t be afraid to swim out a bit to get a better view, at the same time keeping in mind that lifeguards can’t easily monitor the beach’s two farthest flanks.

A-Frame Camping and Hiking The Ala Kahakai Trail

Set just a few hundred feet inland from Hapuna Beach is a sprawling campground of sturdily built A-Frame structures available for use by campers. They are fully enclosed with bug netting, include sleeping platforms and picnic tables, and feature outdoor cooking facilities and communal bathrooms with cold showers. Each A-Frame can accomodate four people relatively comfortably, and costs around $50 per night with reservations that must be made at least a week in advance. During high tourism season it’s not uncommon for every A-Frame to be booked weeks – if not months – in advance, so it’s smart to plan ahead for a camping trip at Hapuna. 

Another great aspect of the recreation area is its proximity to the Ala Kahakai hiking trail. This is a nearly 16-mile-long loop following ancient Hawaiian footpaths that lead along the rugged, parched old lavafields of Big Island’s Kohala Coast. It takes hikers past some of the most pristine shoreline on the island, although in some places it’s poorly marked and even more poorly maintained. It’s important to exercise extreme caution at certain places along the route where the path skirts perilously close to steep sea cliffs

Food and drinks are available within Hapuna State Recreation Area at the Three Frogs Cafe, which is found a little ways up from the beach area and open from 10am to 4pm daily. It’s a good place to grab a light lunch or snack after a long morning of swimming and boogie boarding, and it even offers rental items like snorkeling gear, beach chairs and parasols.

The only downside of Hapuna is that it can get exceedingly crowded on holidays or weekends during high tourism season. If you happen to visit the beach on a very busy day and decide that you want to escape the crowds, just a few miles south of the popular half-mile stretch of white sand is Beach 69 – a secluded and rarely crowded swimming hole shaded by a string of giant kiawe trees growing in stands along the shore. This smaller and more tranquil spot is great for swimming, and offers arguably better snorkeling ground than Hapuna itself. Beach 69 is covered in-depth with its own dedicated article on this website.

How To Get To Hapuna Beach

Hapuna Beach State Recreation Area is easily accessed via Highway 19, otherwise known as Mamalahoa Highway, roughly 30 miles north of downtown Kona and 3 miles south of the tiny Big Island port town of Kawaihae. Coming from Kona, there will be a left turn lane and sign for Hapuna Beach Road at approximately Mile Marker 70. Turn onto Hapuna Beach Road and continue down the hill toward the ocean for less than half a mile until the road turns into the patchy and potholed Old Puako Road. In another hundred feet there will be a right-hand turn into a large parking lot and signs for Hapuna Beach. 

Right at the entrance to the parking lot is a manned gate station where state park rangers collect parking and entrance fees. In general, entrance fees are around $5 per person and $10 per vehicle. Hawaii residents with a valid State ID or driver’s license can enter and park for free. However, it’s not uncommon to see the guardhouse closed and the gate left open, letting visitors drive past without making contact with any park rangers or paying any fees. There doesn’t seem to be any rhyme or reason to when the gate station is occupied or not, so it’s best to come prepared to pay and hope that simply no one’s there. Park at the top of the hill and walk down the wide paved road past the green-roofed pavilions and barbecue pits to get to the beach.

Open fires, consumption of alcohol, pets, use of drones, and harassing wildlife are banned at Hapuna, with a small army of four-wheeler-riding park rangers keen on enforcing the rules and keeping everyone safe. There’s also nighttime security patrols that make sure only registered campers remain at the park after dark. Hapuna Beach State Recreation Area is open from 7:00am to 6:45pm daily for day-use visitors.

For those not wanting to wholly depend on Three Frogs Cafe for snacks and picnic supplies while at the park, the nearby town of Kawaihae has a handful of humble grocery stores but no supermarket. The Foodland supermarket in the medium-sized cowboy town of Waimea roughly 10 miles east of Kawaihae is the closest spot to pick up a broader variety of picnic foods, drinks, and beach gear, with a great range of restaurants and coffee shops found in the same commercial center as the supermarket. 

NOTE: As of April 2021, they are also charging a per person entrance fee for non-residents to go to this beach, it is $5 per person with children under 3 being free. Parking is $10 for non residents. See prices below

The park is a Big Island historical gem tucked away along the rocky, arid coast of Kohala District, roughly a dozen miles north of the small, industrial port town of Kawaihae, and features a range of carefully restored structures exemplifying the early days of the village’s 600-year-old past. Visitors to the park pass by canoe storage sheds, coastal “hales” (houses), traditional stone tools and furniture, and an intricate maze of unmortared lava rock wall bordering the footpaths and crowding the shoreline. For anyone interested in traditional Polynesian rock wall building, this place is a must-see on the island and a great example of the craftsmanship of the ancients. The intricacy of these painstakingly stacked structures is astounding; they span across the beachfront in seemingly perfect columns, with occasional breaks large enough to let just a single human through.

The park’s name – lapa kahi – means “single ridge” in the Hawaiian language and refers to the ancient land division that existed here more than half a millennia ago. Back then, the entire island was divided into narrow pie slices spanning from verdant upland taro farms growing the ubiquitous staple crop all the way down to the sea-level communities of fishermen, banana farmers and breadfruit growers. The monarchy reigning over the island organized its subjects this way, and the inhabitants of each land slice traded among themselves for what they needed: fish making its way up the mountain slopes, and taro coming down to the coast. This was called an “ahupua’a” (ah-hoo-poo-ah-ah) and was how land was organized in the time of old Hawaii similar to the political districts found on Big Island today.

So, Lapakahi was a fishing village at the bottom of the ahupua’a, whose generations of fishermen would ply the waters just off of the coast of black lava boulders and white coral, casting out their nets and pulling in piles of fat, succulent fish like ono, ahi and mahi-mahi. They would trade their catch with upland farmers living on the slopes of Kohala Mountain – the northernmost of the five volcanoes making up Big Island’s entire landmass. This system of trade was what the ancient economy of the island was based on, and still survives intact in some places, though in a much more informal sense. It has left a legacy of Big Island farmers, hunters and fishermen bartering their excess harvest for the goods they can’t produce themselves with friends and family living far away.

And it wasn’t just fish being produced down at the coast, either; to this day at Lapakahi visitors can see examples of ancient salt pans – bowl-shaped carved black lava stones used for drying ocean water in the sun and collecting the salt left behind. This was the only method the ancients had to produce the crucial foodstuff, since the island is comprised of basalt volcanic rock with no mineral deposits. Traditionally the salt, known as “pa’akai” in Hawaiian, was used to preserve fish and season food, and was a highly valued commodity due to the painstaking process in creating it. 

There were also groves of kukui nut trees, sometimes called “candlenut”, planted at the low elevations, which produced an oil-rich native Hawaiian nut burned in traditional lamps. Lamp stands which long ago burned kukui nut oil can still be seen at the historical park, which were likely used all the way up until the 19^th Century.

Down the coastline from Lapakahi’s main parking lot is a large thatch-roof hut complete with walls of woven grass, an A-frame of skinny bamboo poles and a square courtyard of low stacked rock walls. This is the structure featured in many of the photos of the park, and is arguably the most interesting of all the structures standing on its grounds. From the walled-in courtyard, this spot offers a fantastic panorama of the maze of rock walls lining the shore, the surrounding dry scrubland of stout, thorny keawe trees, and beyond that the rolling flanks of Kohala Mountain shrouded in eternal clouds. The seaside hut is a reconstructed dwelling, and the original house occupying the site was used as living quarters well into the 1900s.

The Vibrant Marine Life Conservation District Just Offshore

Big Island’s North Kohala Coast boasts a rich diversity of sea life found milling about in the warm, shallow inland waters. Tropical species of fish and coral account for much of this biodiversity, and few places on the island harbor more of it than along this stretch of coastline making up the historical park’s boundary. This is great news for swimmers and snorkelers, who frequent the nearby Koaie Cove looking for schools of fish, urchins, eels, sea stars and the occasional turtle.

Common fish found just offshore at Lapakahi include several species of butterflyfish, recognized by their long snouts used for probing the reef’s nooks and crannies looking for small invertebrates, as well as the yellow tang – a type of surgeonfish and one of the most iconic to be spotted in Big Island’s waters. Snorkelers sometimes notice them grazing on the algae growing on the backs of the endangered Hawaiian Green Sea Turtle. It’s also a great place to see stands of the intricately textured cauliflower coral, which thrives in the offshore reef’s sunny shallows and provides an important habitat for several different strata of coastal sea life.

There is very little beach to speak of along the park’s shoreline, so swimmers and snorkelers should use extreme caution while getting in and out of the water, and to keep in mind that there is no lifeguard on duty here. Intimidating-looking bluffs of jagged black rock stick out into the bay, and are regularly assaulted by ranks of charging white-capped waves coming in from the open ocean. These conditions make going for a dip here difficult sometimes, with just a few reliably safe spots with strong rip currents present just beyond their peaceful waters. With so many better, safer beaches found just a few miles down the road around the town of Kawaihae, such as Spencer Beach Park and Hapuna Beach, it’s advisable that those new to the island or who aren’t strong swimmers steer clear of the ocean at Lapakahi Park.

How To Get to Lapakahi State Historical Park

Lapakahi State Historical Park is easiest to access from the main West Hawaii town of Kona – Big Island’s primary tourism hub and the best spot to pick up beach and hiking supplies for trips to the Kohala Coast. Head north along Highway 19, otherwise known as Queen Ka’ahumanu Highway, for roughly 35 miles until the road forks, and turning left will bring visitors to the industrial port town of Kawaihae in less than half a mile. Continue through the town, and turn onto Highway 270, otherwise known as Akoni Pule Highway, which runs another 20 miles north to the town of Hawi and the northern tip of the island.

After driving about twelve miles north on Highway 270, past the turn for the Hamakua Macadamia Nut Company and its showroom of free samples and dizzyingly good coffee, signs for Lapakahi Park will come into view near mile marker 14, and turning left here will bring drivers onto a narrow two-lane road that leads to a parking lot after dropping a few hundred feet down the hill. A park ranger is usually on duty at the modern-looking building in the middle of the lot, however guided tours of the stone ruins and heritage.

This is an isolated and stunningly beautiful stretch of coastline carpeted with forests of young coconut palms, beach grasses, sprigs of ferns, and other pioneer species popping up out of the cracked rock. The onshore breeze carries a faint whiff of salt that grows stronger as hikers near the shoreline, where the rumble of crashing waves can be heard long before they are seen. The loose red rock shifts about underfoot with a satisfying crunch until it is replaced by black sand upon reaching the beach, where the new palm forest falls away and reveals the full ocean vista.

From this vantage point, the horizon is an impossibly straight line, separating a cloudy baby-blue sky from the darker bluish-grey ocean churning about below. Jagged bluffs of black rock border the rugged beach on both sides – headlands which the powerful incoming surf strike first in mesmerizing explosions of white sea spray. Although the word “beach” can be found in the name of this place, swimming here is exceptionally hazardous and generally frowned upon by locals who don’t want the bad publicity of hapless swimmers being swept out to sea and rescued by the Coast Guard. So, play it safe while visiting Kaimu and stay out of the water.

The hazardous nature of the coast here is easy to notice on high surf days, when big rolling waves make their way into the beach and toss about the round lava stones lining the shore. This whirlpool of tumbling rocks the size of engine blocks and violently rushing water makes going for a dip pretty uninviting, in tandem with the grinding sound of the rocks smashing against each other in the fray.

“New” Kaimu Beach Was Once “Old” Kaimu Beach

The stretch of rocky, desolate shoreline along Big Island’s Kalapana Coast known among locals as the “new” Kaimu Black Sand Beach is indeed just that – new.

It looked much different three decades ago, when it was a picturesque crescent-shaped stretch of black sand, fringed by a long line of mature coconut groves that cast shade on the beach and gave it an iconic, postcard quality. This was the “old” Kaimu Beach; a much beloved local swimming hole where generations of native Hawaiians and island-born haoles (foreigners) learned to surf, paddle and fish among the turquoise waters of the bay, where an offshore reef of sunken lava boulders tempered the force of incoming waves and made for an unmatched surf break.

The beach was a windswept, laid-back destination nestled in the jungle, its popularity amplified by the fact that Puna District is notoriously lacking in safe swimming and surfing spots. It was the local ocean access for multiple different communities found along the Kalapana Coast and farther inland, and one of the natural features driving the growth of its nearest town, Kaimu (kie-moo) – which had been a sleepy old-time Hawaii fishing village for centuries. These days, Kaimu Bay and its associated beach are remembered fondly by locals living in the area who are old enough to have seen that iconic palm-lined crescent of black sand with their own eyes so many years ago.

Those who remember the beach’s formed glory are the ones who lived through its destruction, when in 1990 lava flows from an eruption of Kilauea Volcano starting spilling out of a new fissure. This sent an avalanche of molten rock tumbling down the mountain’s flanks towards the villages of Kaimu and Kalapana. Entire neighborhoods were completely wiped out save for a few surviving lots, including the subdivisions of Kalapana Gardens and the nearby Royal Gardens. The lava flow destroyed more than 150 homes in less than a year of activity, and covered cars, parks, stores, utility lines and roads beneath a sea of black rock that measures nearly 100 feet deep in some places.

The charging red hot rock met the ocean at last and quickly proceeded to destroy the world-famous Old Kaimu Beach and fill in Kaimu Bay, creating a large swath of new coastline that is almost a quarter-mile wide at its thickest point. By early 1991, the rogue flow had petered out thanks to new lava tubes opening in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, which diverted the flow away from Kalapana and back into uninhabited land. The eruption would continue for many more years, occasionally creeping back across the boundary and causing more havoc, like in July 2010 when lava consumed a home in the Kalapana Gardens neighborhood that was only five years old at the time.

For years after the eruption, the inundated land lay almost completely vacant, looking like a scraggly moonscape of shiny cracked black rock. But some families chose to stay and live on the outskirts of the lavafield, building small off-grid structures and planting the vast stretches of desolate land with ti plants, young coconut palms, breadfruit, papaya trees and many other pioneer plants. Over the years, the Kalapana and Kaimu communities have revived, and have become a destination of sorts for the burgeoning Big Island cottage industry of “lava tourism”.

The recovery of the area is perhaps best exemplified by the main commercial hub of Kalapana known as “Uncle Robert’s” – an open-air market and music venue space at the very end of the road that hosts raucous Wednesday night parties featuring the beloved house band called the Kalapana Awa Band. Attached to the market space is a large parking lot where food trucks usually set up on busy days, with a convenience store at the far end called Kaimu Korner selling beer, groceries and pre-made food. Adjacent to the store is the House of Fire Gallery, an art studio and showroom featuring many, many pieces inspired by volcanoes, lava and the Hawaiian fire goddess Pele. 

This entire complex, including the gallery and store, is simply known as “Uncle’s” among locals, named in honor of the beloved patriarch of old Kalapana Village, Robert Keli’iho’omalu. It is “Uncle Robert’s” children who run the day-to-day operations of the market these days, and several of his sons are members of the Kalapana Awa Band. 

How to Get to Kaimu Black Sand Beach

To reach the parking lot and trailhead for the quarter-mile hike out to Kaimu Black Sand Beach, just use Highway 130 coming from the small East Hawaii hippie town of Pahoa and follow signs for Kalapana. Roughly ten miles outside of Pahoa along a road that gradually slopes downhill to the coast, a sign will appear that the highway is ending.

Here there will be a left turn lane, and taking this left will bring drivers to a “T” in the road after heading a few hundred more feet downhill past a roadside water filling station on the left. From this intersection, going right will take visitors another quarter-mile to the main market complex’s parking lot. At around 6:00pm or 7:00pm on Wednesday evenings during tourism’s high season, there will already be a long stretch of cars parked along the shoulder of this road leading down to Uncle Robert’s.

On every other day of the week, this intersection is usually deserted except for an occasional fruit seller, and parking spaces are plentiful both near the market and the convenience store out back.

From the main market parking lot, the trailhead leading to Kaimu Black Sand Beach is marked by a small sign leading up a rock staircase with a bulky stainless steel handrail, but it can be easy to miss. So, if you’re having some trouble finding where the trail to the beach starts, just ask around at the market, which features a restaurant and smoothie shack that are open every day but Sunday and run by friendly, laid-back locals who are usually happy to see any customers at all.

The best way for visitors to experience the whole Kalapana-Kaimu area in a single afternoon is to show up early on a sunny Wednesday around 3:00pm or 4:00pm, easily find parking in front of the market, pick up some drinks at Kaimu Korner, and then make their way to the trailhead and hike down to the beach to watch the waves crash. 

Right at sunset, they can make their way back to the market area since the beach trail can be a bit hazardous to walk in the dark. Then find something that looks good for dinner from the many different food stalls serving up everything from potstickers to spring rolls to tacos to vegan cuisine. After one or two warm-up acts, the Kalapana Awa Band will take the stage and they will typically play until closing. 

These intrepid history buffs can usually be seen climbing around on sections of the park’s ruined railroad track running down to its tiny harbor, or snapping photos of the rusted skeleton of a metal crane standing beside the pier that long ago undoubtedly loaded steamships with the mill’s sweet, highly coveted products. Exploring the landscape here is like taking a step back through the ages; to a time in Hawaiian history when sugar barons ruled the islands and inventions like railroads, steamships and electricity were regarded as modern marvels. Everywhere you look at Mahukona there are still more relics of these bygone days, especially just offshore of the harbor where pieces of old mill equipment lie scattered among the coral in seemingly every direction.

This makes the abandoned harbor area at the park a godsend for snorkelers and scuba divers, who gear up in the nearby parking lot zipping up wetsuits and strapping on fins. They are typically found beyond the mortared rock wall plying the crystal-clear waters of the shallow, protected bay, and exploring the seafloor that is littered with coral outcrops, old concrete pilings and a large collection of badly rusted machine parts. 

This underwater landscape is inhabited by all sorts of tropical sea life, and ocean-goers peering through their masks might spot octopus, eels, urchins, sea horses, crabs and even the occasional Hawaiian Green Sea Turtle. Moray eels are a common sight in the debris field here, who take advantage of the countless number of hiding places created by the field of rubble. Even the magnificent, graceful manta ray has been known to frequent these waters and use the artificial reef as a feeding ground.

The harbor shallows are warm and calm, with translucent turquoise water that affords a level of visibility not commonly found at other popular Big Island snorkel spots. The ocean here is so clear that swimmers standing atop the long rock wall jutting out into the bay can easily see the smooth grey lava boulders lining the seafloor, and even the gaggles of tiny orange and yellow fish darting to and fro. Typical fish found in the waters off of Mahukona Park include reef fish like frogfish, pufferfish, yellow tangs and parrotfish.

A steel ladder provides easy access to the bay when ocean conditions are calm and the waves breaking on the banks of the harbor are little more than ripples. On days like this (most typical of Hawaii’s summer season) swimmers and divers can safely explore all around the bay, which has a gently sloping bottom that only gets to be around 40 feet deep at its deepest point. These usually placid conditions paired with some truly one-of-a-kind underwater attractions makes Mahukona Park a great place to visit for those learning to swim, trying out snorkeling for the first time, or looking for a place to go for a dip with the smallest possible surf.

Even so, it is still important to observe ocean conditions upon arriving to the park, as strong swells are possible here especially in the wintertime. There is no lifeguard on duty, so watch out for rip tides and rogue waves, and always remember the statewide Hawaii ocean safety motto: “if in doubt, don’t go out”.

As an added bonus, during the winter months, Mahukona is one of the better places on the island to go Whale Watching and the sunsets are amazing

The Wreck of the SS Kauai – Mahukona’s Prime Attraction for Snorkeling and Scuba

Adding to the crowded seafloor off the coast of Mahukona Beach Park is a real life shipwreck. The remnants of an engine and propeller, as well as scattered pieces of cargo including railroad equipment and cables, can be spotted strewn across the rocky seafloor, partially engulfed in sand in some places and dissolved by corrosion in others.

This is what remains of the SS Kauai, an inter-island Hawaiian steamer that struck the reef off of Mahukona Harbor in December 1913 and sank. This was in the heyday of the Hawaiian sugar industry, and the steamer – which began its life hauling lumber up and down the U.S. west coast – was loaded with railroad parts and bulk sugar when it went down. During a heavy storm in the years since the wreck, massive thrashing waves washed the ship’s boiler to shore. For snorkelers and divers hoping to find the remnants of the Kauai, simply set out for the middle of the harbor and then follow a line of old mooring chains stretching across the bottom that leads to the ship.

The run-down condition of the harbor is a far-cry from its glory days, when in the late 19^th Century and early 20^th Century it was a bustling port and important steamship stop whose sugar mill eventually became part of the Kohala Sugar Company. Back then, Hawaiian sugar was an immensely lucrative business, driven by huge demand from the western U.S. states, so large monopolies formed and could afford to invest heavily in the infrastructure required to get sugar from the field to the market. What remains of this industry at Mahukona today is a testament to this.

Camping at Mahukona Beach Park

The campground at Mahukona Beach Park is located in a different spot than its sometimes crowded day-use area comprised of the old sugar mill, railroad track and harbor area.

It’s a few hundred feet away along a side-road that skirts to the left of the sugar mill complex. The road parallels the shoreline for a bit farther until coming to a wide grassy area that runs downhill and abruptly turns into a stretch of rocky coast. There are no marked tent spaces – this entire grass area is fair game for setting up camp, and is operated on a first-come first-served basis. There aren’t many shade trees in this open area, and the best place to keep cool while camping here on during hot summer days is right up against the forest of keawe trees that borders the campgrounds in the back.

There are a few groupings of picnic tables sprinkled around the grassy lawn, with some barbecue pits found on-site in various stages of decay. In the middle of the grounds is a sheltered pavilion that was once a popular spot for picnics and could be rented for special occasions, but these days is boarded up and off-limits to visitors

Amenities for campers are sparse here, with portable toilets serving as bathrooms and no running water available at the campground. So, it’s crucial for those opting to stay at Mahukona to bring enough water to drink, wash and bathe with, in addition to all other needed supplies considering there is no concessionaire at the park.

How to Get to Mahukona Beach Park

Mahukona Beach Park can be found roughly 14 miles north of the tiny Big Island port town of Kawaihae, located near the quaint inland cowboy town of Waimea on the way to the island’s northwest coast. From Kawaihae, turn onto Highway 270, otherwise known as Akoni Pule Highway, which runs roughly 20 miles north to the town of Hawi.

Between mile marker 14 and mile marker 15 along Highway 270, there will be a road jutting off to the left leading downhill towards the ocean with signage for the park. Turn left onto this road and follow it for half a mile before coming around a hairpin turn where the old sugar mill will come into view. Heading right here will take park-goers to the parking lot accessing the abandoned harbor and its collection of ideal snorkeling spots, while staying left at the mill leads to the campground.

Mahukona Beach Park is open daily from 6:00am to 10:00pm, making it a popular spot for sunset swims and night diving. The “beach” here is rocky and unforgiving with little sand to speak of, making the park only marginally popular with sunbathers and those hoping to dip their toes into the sand. But for swimmers, snorkelers, divers and history buffs, Mahukona is a one-of-a-kind destination very much off the typical tourism circuit with pieces of its intriguing history scattered everywhere you look.

History of Ironman on the Big Island

The origin of Ironman on the Big Island dates back to 1978 when Navy Commander John Collins, a former triathlete, proposed the idea for an endurance race that would combine three existing events: swimming 2.4 miles in Kailua Bay, biking 112 miles around the island, and running 26.2 miles from Keauhou to Hawi. The first event was held in February 1982 with 15 participants and has since grown into one of the most popular races in the world.

How Long Has It Been Held?

Since its inception in 1982, Ironman on the Big Island has been held annually every October or November, depending on weather conditions. Over 4,500 athletes participate each year, making it one of the largest Ironman events worldwide.

In addition to this championship event, there are also several other smaller races throughout the year, including half-Ironmans (1/2 distance) and sprints (1/4 distance). These events provide an opportunity for athletes of all levels to compete in a variety of distances and challenge themselves.

When Does Ironman Take Place?

Date and Time of the Race: The date for Ironman varies each year but typically takes place in October or November. This year’s race will be held on Saturday, October 24th at 7 am HST (Hawaii Standard Time). Unfortunately, the Championships have been split between Nice, France, and Kona, with this year’s women’s race taking place in Kona and the men’s race in Nice. In 2024, they will reverse, with the men coming to Kona.

The course starts with a 2.4-mile open water swim off Kailua Bay, followed by a 112-mile bike ride through some of the most beautiful scenery in Hawaii, including lava fields and lush tropical forests. It ends with a 26.2-mile run along Ali’i Drive overlooking Kailua Bay, finishing at Kamakahonu Beach Park near downtown Kona.

As someone who has completed a few Ironmans, seeing the best of the best in action in person is amazing. For instance, in the 50-years-old category, in order to be good enough to make it to the Championships for your age, you most likely have to run your marathon section in under 3 hours. So, you swim 2.4 miles, bike 112 miles, and THEN run at a pace of 6:52 for 26.2 miles. A pace that most people can’t run for one mile. A time that most people dream of if they are only running a marathon. But at over 50 years old, this is what the best are doing.

What Other Races Take Place on the Big Island?

From Ironman triathlons to marathons, there are plenty of opportunities for athletes looking for a challenge.

Types of Races Available: The Big Island offers a variety of different types of races that cater to all levels and abilities. For those who want an intense physical challenge, there are Ironman triathlons, half-marathons, 10Ks, 5Ks, and more. For those looking for something less strenuous but still exciting, there are also fun runs like color runs or glow runs, as well as obstacle courses such as mud runs or zombie crawls.

Popular Races and Events on the Big Island: Some popular races on the island include the Ironman World Championship held annually in Kailua-Kona; Hapalua Half Marathon, which takes place every April; XTERRA World Championship, which is held each October; Lavaman Triathlon, which occurs each March; and Run 4 Hope, which happens every November. In addition to these larger events, there are also smaller local running clubs that organize their own weekly group runs throughout the year.

Where Can You Watch Ironman on the Big Island?

Spectator Locations for Ironman Races

The most popular spot is Kailua Pier in Kona, where the start and finish lines are located. This area also offers plenty of restaurants and shops nearby, so you can grab a bite or do some shopping while watching the action unfold.

Other prime viewing spots include Waikoloa Beach Resort, which provides a great view of swimmers as they make their way through two miles of open water; Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows, which overlooks both bike and run courses; Ali’i Drive along Queen Kaahumanu Highway near Keauhou Shopping Center; Holualoa Village at mile 23 on Kuakini Highway; Puako Petroglyph Preserve at mile 28 on Queen Kaahumanu Highway; Hapuna Beach State Park at mile 32 on Queen Kaahumanu Highway; Kawaihae Harbor at mile 35 off Akoni Pule Highway (Highway 270); Mahukona Beach Park at mile 40 off Akoni Pule Highway (Highway 270); Spencer Beach Park near Kapaau town at Mile 42 off Akoni Pule Highway (Highway 270); Kohala Mountain Road between Hawi Town and Waimea Town just before Mile 45 off Akoni Pule Highway (Highway 270).

Why Did Ironman Leave Hawaii?

The Ironman organization wanted to separate the race into separate women’s and men’s races so that they could focus on each race rather than combining them. It also meant they could have larger fields and more TV revenue. The race is a big financial gain for the Island of Hawaii, but it also puts a strain on the community. Traffic and lodging become issues, and essentially, the town gets taken over by the World Championships. Having TWO races in which this happened was more than the community felt they could handle and they expressed their concern. Thus, the decision was made to have one race each year. Kona is what makes the Championships special, and we hope they stay on the Big Island or go back to having only one race. Our feeling is that a race in any other city becomes just a race.

Above the cloud line, the night air becomes cold and clear, with visibility no longer compromised by tiny droplets of water suspended in the air. This feature, along with Hawaii’s famously dark skies and low global latitude, makes for an ideal stargazing environment – quite possibly the brightest and clearest view of the heavens to be found anywhere in the United States. The grouping of massive telescopes at the mountain’s summit is a testament to this, with mind-boggling amounts of resources spent assembling these sci-fi looking domes in a wholly inhospitable environment of desolate, ancient high-altitude lavafield.

From the summit, a sea of clouds can be seen obscuring the lower flanks of the mountain, with occasional appearances of Mauna Kea’s neighboring volcano Mauna Loa across the great divide, making it seem as if two towering mountain tops were suspended in the sky. Far out on the horizon, it looks like the view from outside an airplane window – a carpet of puffy white clouds and stunningly blue sky and nothing else. The land at the summit is reddish gray and thoroughly weathered, with great rolling hills of cracked rock navigated by a road that loops up and down many switchbacks. It looks like a moonscape at first glance, only betrayed by the cluster of a dozen towering domed buildings seeming to spring out of the earth.

These are the telescopes – funded and maintained by eleven different nations – that have made Mauna Kea the global mecca of land-based astronomical research, with their facilities located within a more than 500-acre “special land use zone” comprising part of the much larger Mauna Kea Science Reserve. Incredibly, the grounds of the telescope complex are open to the public during daylight hours, although the buildings themselves are strictly off-limits to visitors. All mountain-goers have to do to reach this fascinating spot is check in at the Visitor’s Center and ensure that their vehicle is capable of four-wheel drive. 

The gravel road of steep switchbacks connecting the Visitor’s Center with the summit complex is less than nine miles long, but takes nearly half an hour to safely drive. Taking the time to make that extra drive up the hairpin turns above the shrub line is worth it in the end, though, as the full panorama of sky finally comes into view at the top, offering a spectacle that many visitors to Big Island don’t ever get to see.

The Visitor’s Center offers an impressive range of educational models and informational displays, airing videos about the history of the observatories and its myriad research programs. The geology, ecology and cultural importance of Mauna Kea are common topics of the exhibits, as well as more general info about astronomy, volcanology and the formation of the Hawaiian Islands. Unlike the summit area, the Center is open past sundown, which tends to be a busy time due to the several small telescopes – some up to 16 inches in diameter – that get deployed in its courtyard for visitors to use. Peering through the viewfinders on clear nights, first-time astronomers can see planets, star clusters, galaxies, nebulae and other other-worldly looking features of the night sky.

These impromptu nightly stargazing programs are usually run by a staff member or volunteer who walks gazers through a constellation tour, sometimes using a laser pointer to direct their attention to specific objects. This spot is also a popular haunt for amateur astronomers, who make the long drive up the mountain just before dark to set up their own telescopes in the same courtyard area and scan the sky for familiar sights.

Visitors to Mauna Kea who are planning on making the extra trip up to the summit should keep in mind that its strongly advisable to spent at least half an hour (or three to four hours to be even safer) at the Visitor Center’s halfway point in order to acclimatize to the high elevation. Altitude sickness is a real and potentially life-threatening hazard present on the mountain, and the risk is significantly heightened when planning to go higher than the Center. So, come prepared to take a rest stop before climbing the final section, and familiarize yourself with the symptoms of altitude sickness just in case you or someone in your party begins to feel sick.

Hawaiians’ Sacred Ground, Useful Rocks, And An Ecological Challenge

In the ancient Hawaiian religion, the summits of Big Island’s mountains are considered sacred. For generations, a law existed in old-time Hawaii that stipulated only high-ranking members of royalty may visit the top of Mauna Kea, as by being the tallest of the island’s five volcanoes, it was also seen as the holiest. They considered the summit area to be the “region of the gods”, and a place where benevolent spirits lived. In the Hawaiian language Mauna Kea is short for “Mauna a Wakea”, meaning “white mountain”, named so for its snow-covered summit in the wintertime.

Commoners lived on the flanks of the mountain and depended on its large swaths of forests for food, and on its deposits of hard volcanic basalt rock for tool production. Europeans began to arrive to the island in earnest by the late 18^th Century, who introduced cattle, sheep and game animals, many of which escaped their enclosures and became feral, causing significant damage over time to the mountain’s fragile ecological balance.

Nearly a millennia ago, ancient Hawaiians established quarries high up on the mountain to mine exceptionally hard basalt rock found in deposits in areas where red hot rock met glacial ice and quickly cooled. Volcanic glass was collected to make blades and fishing gear, and this industry was going strong until European and American-made steel tools began to replace them wholesale.

How To Get to Mauna Kea

Reaching Mauna Kea’s Visitor’s Center and summit telescope complex can be a bit tricky for first-time visitors to Big Island. Regardless of whether you are coming from Hilo or Kona, though, you will end up on the Daniel K. Inouye Highway, otherwise known as Saddle Road or Highway 200. 

Visitors coming from Kona-side will pass by the Pohakuloa Training Area and its extensive stretch of military troop housing and support buildings before reaching the left turn onto Mauna Kea Access Road. A few miles before the turn, drivers will pass the Gilbert Kahele Recreation Area with picnic areas, an outdoor jungle gym, modern restroom facilities and fantastic views of the mountain. 

After turning left onto Mauna Kea Access Road (right if coming from Hilo), follow it for roughly six miles keeping left at the fork and following signs for the Visitor’s Center, officially known as the Onizuka Center for International Astronomy, which is open seven days a week during business hours, and usually stays open for a few hours after sunset to accommodate its free stargazing program.

This is where the paved road ends, and beyond the Center the route to the summit is a winding stretch of gravel switchbacks that runs another roughly nine miles before ending at the telescope complex loop. It’s important to keep in mind that occasionally the summit road is closed beyond the Visitor’s Center due to bad weather, especially in the winter. So, it’s smart to check to see if the road is open prior to planning a trip to the summit to avoid a big disappointment. Also, those who do opt for a day trip to see the telescopes need to begin the descent back to the Visitor’s Center after sunset as nighttime at the summit is when the researchers work.

All of the buildings at the top are off-limits with the exception of the Subaru Telescope, which does offer pre-planned tours during the daytime on a limited availability basis. It’s also crucial to dress warmly if you plan on sticking around for sunset, since ambient temperatures can drop to as low as 30 degrees Fahrenheit. Most rental car companies on the island have their customers sign paperwork promising that they won’t drive their rentals beyond the Visitor’s Center due to the hazardous nature of the road and other liabilities. If you plan on renting a car on Big Island and taking it up Mauna Kea, make sure to read the fine print of your rental contract to see if there are similar restrictions. 

The beach is found within the much larger Hapuna Beach State Recreation Area, consisting of more than 60 acres of scraggly, windswept coastal land offering hiking and camping activities in addition to swimming, sunbathing, snorkeling, barbecuing and boogie boarding along the beachfront. Hapuna’s reputation on the island is legendary; locals and visitors alike consistently rank it as one of the best white sand beaches in West Hawaii, and compare it favorably to the white sands of islands like Kauai where the wide band of inviting-looking sand the color of raw sugar hugs the shore and seems to go on for miles in both directions.

Hapuna is about the closest thing to this travel brochure vista that Big Island has to offer, considering that more than half of its coastline is made up of unforgiving black lava cliffs crashed against by towering, angry waves. Its grounds are well-maintained and handsomely landscaped, with several square open-air gazebos crammed with picnic tables and positioned next to barbecue pits. The green-roofed structures are expansive; each one large enough to seat several different family groups at once. Gently curving concrete sidewalks running parallel to the beach link the gazebos with stands of public showers and shaded grassy areas ideal for unfurling a picnic blanket.

Like a handful of other popular Kona-side beaches, Hapuna is divided into a southern “public” side and a northern “private” side. The private end is mostly used by guests staying at the adjacent hotels and resorts, including the Hapuna Prince Hotel, The Westin Hapuna Beach Resort, and the Hapuna Beach Residences at Mauna Kea Resort. These are the sprawling multi-story white buildings jutting out onto the bluff which seem to make their way into many of the most iconic photos of the beach. 

These accommodations provide lounge chairs and parasols for their guests, which can usually be spotted set out on the sand in neat rows or bunched together for storage. “Public” side visitors to Hapuna can still explore any part of the beach they want as long as they respect the hotel facilities and keep in mind that the inland areas north of the State Recreation Area boundary is technically private property. There is no hard boundary between the two sections of the beach, though, and hotel guests regularly wander down to the southern end while swimmers and boogie boarders often set out in search of more ideal waves up north. 

Beach conditions at Hapuna change dramatically between summer and winter, where from October through April large waves coming from the northwest charge into the bay and crash on the beach in spectacular fashion, drawing hordes of surfers and boogie boarders eager to ride the swelling waves. This is also the time of year where the beach narrows significantly due to shifting sand, contrasting with the summer months where it grows to its maximum width in or around the month of September. Waves and rip currents are calmer in the summer, too, when it’s typical for the beach break at Hapuna to be little more than a gentle, soothing lapping. Still, lifeguards are on-duty at Hapuna every day of the year and have made many daring rescues during periods of high surf.

However, due to its immense length there are several blind spots along the formidable stretch of Kua Bay sand, especially at either end where rocky outcrops provide ideal snorkeling grounds. Snorkeling isn’t as popular at Hapuna as other world-renown Big Island underwater adventure spots like Two Step at Honaunau Bay, but mask and fin-clad swimmers can still by spotted on most days plying the waters just offshore of the rocky cliffs looking for colorful tropical fish, cities of delicate coral and the occasional Hawaiian green sea turtle. Water visibility can sometimes be poor right offshore due to suspended beach sand and a layer of freshwater supplied by nearby springs which floats on the surface of the seawater. So don’t be afraid to swim out a bit to get a better view, at the same time keeping in mind that lifeguards can’t easily monitor the beach’s two farthest flanks.

A-Frame Camping and Hiking The Ala Kahakai Trail

Set just a few hundred feet inland from Hapuna Beach is a sprawling campground of sturdily built A-Frame structures available for use by campers. They are fully enclosed with bug netting, include sleeping platforms and picnic tables, and feature outdoor cooking facilities and communal bathrooms with cold showers. Each A-Frame can accomodate four people relatively comfortably, and costs around $50 per night with reservations that must be made at least a week in advance. During high tourism season it’s not uncommon for every A-Frame to be booked weeks – if not months – in advance, so it’s smart to plan ahead for a camping trip at Hapuna. 

Another great aspect of the recreation area is its proximity to the Ala Kahakai hiking trail. This is a nearly 16-mile-long loop following ancient Hawaiian footpaths that lead along the rugged, parched old lavafields of Big Island’s Kohala Coast. It takes hikers past some of the most pristine shoreline on the island, although in some places it’s poorly marked and even more poorly maintained. It’s important to exercise extreme caution at certain places along the route where the path skirts perilously close to steep sea cliffs.

Food and drinks are available within Hapuna State Recreation Area at the Three Frogs Cafe, which is found a little ways up from the beach area and open from 10am to 4pm daily. It’s a good place to grab a light lunch or snack after a long morning of swimming and boogie boarding, and it even offers rental items like snorkeling gear, beach chairs and parasols.

The only downside of Hapuna is that it can get exceedingly crowded on holidays or weekends during high tourism season. If you happen to visit the beach on a very busy day and decide that you want to escape the crowds, just a few miles south of the popular half-mile stretch of white sand is Beach 69 – a secluded and rarely crowded swimming hole shaded by a string of giant kiawe trees growing in stands along the shore. This smaller and more tranquil spot is great for swimming, and offers arguably better snorkeling ground than Hapuna itself. Beach 69 is covered in-depth with its own dedicated article on this website.

How To Get to Kua Bay

Hapuna Beach State Recreation Area, Kua Bay, is easily accessed via Highway 19, otherwise known as Mamalahoa Highway, roughly 30 miles north of downtown Kona and 3 miles south of the tiny Big Island port town of Kawaihae. Coming from Kona, there will be a left turn lane and sign for Hapuna Beach Road at approximately Mile Marker 70. Turn onto Hapuna Beach Road and continue down the hill toward the ocean for less than half a mile until the road turns into the patchy and potholed Old Puako Road. In another hundred feet there will be a right-hand turn into a large parking lot and signs for Hapuna Beach. 

Right at the entrance to the parking lot is a manned gate station where state park rangers collect parking and entrance fees. In general, entrance fees are around $5 per person and $10 per vehicle. Hawaii residents with a valid State ID or driver’s license can enter and park for free. However, it’s not uncommon to see the guardhouse closed and the gate left open, letting visitors drive past without making contact with any park rangers or paying any fees. There doesn’t seem to be any rhyme or reason to when the gate station is occupied or not, so it’s best to come prepared to pay and hope that simply no one’s there. Park at the top of the hill and walk down the wide paved road past the green-roofed pavilions and barbecue pits to get to the beach.

Open fires, consumption of alcohol, pets, use of drones, and harassing wildlife are banned at Hapuna, with a small army of four-wheeler-riding park rangers keen on enforcing the rules and keeping everyone safe. There’s also nighttime security patrols that make sure only registered campers remain at the park after dark. Hapuna Beach State Recreation Area is open from 7:00am to 6:45pm daily for day-use visitors.

For those not wanting to wholly depend on Three Frogs Cafe for snacks and picnic supplies while at the park, the nearby town of Kawaihae has a handful of humble grocery stores but no supermarket. The Foodland supermarket in the medium-size cowboy town of Waimea roughly 10 miles east of Kawaihae is the closest spot to pick up a broader variety of picnic foods, drinks and beach gear, with a great range of restaurants and coffeeshops found in the same commercial center as the supermarket

Spencer is one of the northernmost white sand beaches on the island, and a welcome reprieve from the otherwise rocky and unforgiving coast of its North Kohala district neighbors. It essentially marks the transition point where Kona’s sprawling, iconic, and picturesque shoreline of sandy bays and turquoise water that stretches for dozens of miles north of the city turns into the wild and rugged coast of the island’s northern flanks leading to the quaint rainswept town of Hawi (ha-vee). 

It’s the last installment in a line of fully-outfitted beach parks that stretches along a length of the island’s western side, offering visitors a grand opportunity to explore Kona’s legendary beaches by simply driving up the highway a few miles at a time from one beach park to the next. Similar to other spots along this line, Spencer Beach offers modern amenities like restrooms, public showers, drinking water stations – even a large covered pavilion filled with picnic tables that includes electrical outlets in the walls for charging phones, lights and maybe even a crockpot.

Then there are the long, curving concrete sidewalks that skirt around the bay delivering beach-goers to the park’s different areas, including a large sloping lawn of green grass dotted with beat-up looking barbecue pits across the way from a well-maintained fenced basketball court. The ball court essentially marks the center of the park, with two distinctly different camping areas on either flank and a wide, flat sandy beach that’s ideal for setting up volleyball nets. Then there are the kayaks, outrigger canoes and stand-up paddle boards employed by the paddlers making the rounds just offshore – these watercraft can usually be spotted stashed in bunches taking up a seldom-used corner of the parking lot.

Snorkeling is a popular pastime at the park thanks to its stretch of shallow reef just offshore that tempers the force of incoming waves and slows down otherwise immensely strong currents. This makes for a shallow, gently sloping body of typically placid water, with crashing waves offshore finally coming in to the beach as little more than a soothing lapping. Groups of reef explorers clad in their fins and facemasks can usually be spotted out in the snorkeling grounds plying the seafloor of coral-clad submerged rocks looking for colorful tropical fish, eels, turtles and octopus. 

However, visitors should keep in mind that near constant ship activity in the nearby Kawaihae Harbor can sometimes send murky water into the bay, cutting down visibility and making it hard to spot the schools of reef fish. So, plan to snorkel at Spencer Park on a day with ideal ocean conditions, or opt to go to another inarguably better spot in West Hawaii like the much-loved Two Step at Honaunau Bay – consistently ranked among the best snorkeling experiences on the island.

The resident lifeguard tower made of molded white plastic and stainless steel railings adds a degree of safety for newbie swimmers and those trying out snorkeling, although on some days the structure is inexplicably unmanned. For those wanting to play it safe and stay close to the tower while enjoying the warm, calm water of the bay, it’s easy to find upon arriving to the park: just look for the stand of several large kiawe (key-ah-vay) trees in the center of the beach with the tower tucked into the shade beneath them and surrounded by a scattering of picnic tables.

Camping is available at the Spencer Beach Park by permit only, and costs roughly $20 per adult per night. Due to the park’s popularity with locals and tour groups, it can get very busy on weekends and holidays with no vacancy available at the various campsites, although this doesn’t happen very often especially during tourism’s off-season. Safety can be an issue at many Big Island beach parks, especially those offering overnight camping, and thankfully Spencer enforces an all-hours ban on alcohol consumption, with a team of security guards that conducts sweeps around the park grounds throughout the night to ensure no campers are being disturbed.

The County of Hawaii uses an online reservation system to collect camping fees and reserve sites for visitors at spots like Spencer Beach Park. Visit the website hawaiicounty.ehawaii.gov/camping and follow the prompts to complete a reservation with a debit or credit card. Discounted camping rates for Hawaii residents are available with a valid State of Hawaii ID or driver’s license. 

Security staff also enforce a “no re-entry” policy at the park, where the main gate is locked at 9:00pm and remains closed until 6:00am daily. This provides an added layer of safety, preventing the arrival of hordes of loud drunken partiers in the middle of the night. Keeping this policy in mind, campers should make sure they are set up with all necessary supplies before the gate is locked for the night. Exceptions to this rule are made for medical emergencies and other unforeseen circumstances, but it’s still possible that even with a legitimate excuse the guards will still not let you back in. No camping is allowed in the pavilions, as they are intended for day use only – these can be reserved for special functions with a separate permit.

Who Was Samuel Spencer?

The beach park’s namesake – Samuel M. Spencer – served as a judge and chairman of the Hawaii County Board of Supervisors from 1893 to 1944, back when the island chain was still a U.S. territory. During his life, Spencer worked hard to develop the North Kohala Coast, and served as a Postmaster at the town of Waimea’s post office. The postal name of the town is “Kamuela”, which means Samuel in Hawaiian, and is named in honor of its legendary hometown political figure. He’s also remembered for using his position as county chairman to help improve access to Waipio Valley – one of the most spectacular and breathtaking areas of natural beauty on the island.

The famed politician died without ever having set foot on the beach park named in his honor. Midway through his life, in the summer of 1935, Spencer planted one of the Banyan tree saplings lining the looping coastal road running along Hilo’s Waiakea Peninsula known as Banyan Drive. This leafy waterfront route is regarded as the city’s “Walk of Fame”, and features what are today towering banyans planted by celebrities and notable locals of the era including Hollywood directors, sports legends, music pioneers, and influential politicians like Spencer. Small hand-carved wooden placards adorn each massive tree stating which famous person put them in the ground nearly a century ago.

How To Get There

Spencer Beach Park is located at the end of Spencer Beach Park Road, which juts off from Highway 270 immediately south of the small Big Island port town of Kawaihae (kah-vie-high). Follow Spencer Beach Park Road for roughly half a mile, passing the entrance to Puukohola Heiau National Historic Site along a narrow road that winds downhill through several switchbacks to the seashore. 

This sightseeing attraction midway to the beach is comprised of an awe-inspiring ancient Hawaiian temple made up of giant mounds of un-mortared lava rock – looking very much like a stone castle by the sea – complete with an interpretive center of educational exhibits and models, as well as a gift shop. The heiau (Hawaiian for “temple”) complex features several picturesque hiking trails and is featured in its own in-depth article on this site.

For campers and day trippers heading to the park, it’s wise to stock up on supplies in Kona town (roughly 35 miles south) or locally in the towns of Kawaihae or Waimea (12 miles east). There is no concessionaire at Spencer, and the dependable parking lot food trucks found at more urban beach parks on the island like Magic Sands and Kahaluu along Kona’s Alii Drive are similarly absent. So it’s important to pack in everything needed for your visit, including camping gear, sun protection and beach snacks (with the notable exception of drinking water, which the park provides in several areas).

Kiawe trees completely dominate the landscape in this region of Big Island, with their gnarled trunks and broad canopies of tiny leaves. One of the most noticeable characteristics of this curious variety of hardwood native to the islands is its ranks of large needle-like thorns. Kiawes have a habit of regularly dropping their thorny twigs, which at North Kona beaches tend to land in the golden sand and get partially buried, until an unfortunate barefoot beach-goer steps on them. Their thorns can get massive – up to an inch long or more, and are sharp enough to punch through the rubber soles of flip-flops. So, always wear decent shoes while walking across beaches like Spencer that are inhabited by kiawes, and be careful where you step.